Protesting

10 February 2021

[Above photo: Protester in bikini. Her face, at least, is well covered. I thought she put it pretty well, despite mis-spelling “Corps”.  That kind of added to the appeal, for me. It is astounding to see a woman not clothed from neck to ankle, except at fancy embassy or sprivate chool fund-raising events, a sign that young people today feel greatly increased freedom of expression.]

It has been hard for me to sit at a safe distance in a comfortable home and watch the protests grow on video and in print. Yesterday was a difficult day, with large protests all over the country. Water cannons were used against peaceful protesters in Mandalay, Nay Pyi Taw, and Bago. A 20yo girl student has died from a military gunshot to the head, others have suffered gunshots to the chest, and many have endured the pain of rubber bullets and water cannons. Most of the violence has been in Nay Pyi Taw, the capitol; too close for the military’s comfort, I’d guess. The mayor of Mandalay was arrested, as were other protesters and leaders throughout Myanmar.

I WhatsApp’d my students today, wondering what their civil disobedience looks like, saying I wanted to support them and wasn’t comfortable sitting on the sidelines. Within an hour two carloads pulled up, I joined them, and we set off for Hledan Center, one of the two major gathering spots in Yangon. As we drove north along Inya Lake many cars and marchers were heading south to Sule, the other protest center, flags flying, signs displayed, music and horns blaring. I learned that at 1AM the Tatmadaw had broken into the NLD (National League for Democracy, Aung San Suu Kyi’s party) headquarters and raiding and trashing it.

We drove on Parami Road across the top of the lake and down Pyay Road toward Hledan. There is a 4 lane major flyover at Hledan which we drove up and where we parked. Usually cars are flying over at 80km or more but one lane was filled with parked cars. We walked back off the overpass and plunged into the sea of people at Hledan Center. The crowd was smaller than yesterday but still significant. Huge banners with a portrait of The Lady hung from the overpass. Many people wore hard hats. Groups were chanting—“Our goal, our goal. Democracy, democracy.” —in Myanmar.

The signs people carried or flashed from cars reached from the serious to the hilarious. “Trust our votes.” “Restore democracy”. “We don’t want a coup.” And then, a pretty young girl holding a sign that said, “Don’t fuck my dream. Fuck my ex.” Another, held by a very short young man, said, “We don’t want a leader shorter than me.” referring to General Min Aung Hlaing’s Napoleonic stature (allegedly 4’8″). “I don’t want a dictator. I want a boyfriend.” “I love Lisa. I don’t love a coup.” “I don’t want military rule. I just want to read Harry Potter.” An elderly woman held a sign that said: “A.C.A.B All cops are bastards.”

There was little active police or military presence and no bad behavior. With the sound trucks it felt more like a weekend festival. There were many police and military vehicles parked on a section of Maha Bandula Road east of Sule Pagoda, “standing by”, as our past president put it.

The protesters were mostly in their mid-teens to mid-30’s. They were cleverly dispersed all over the city, making confrontation with them more difficult. The mood was festive, yet with an intensity heard mostly when they chanted. I had thought I’d be just riding around in a car, holding a placard, wearing my red and gold NLD hat, and giving the 3 fingered sign. When we dismounted and walked around Hledan Center, I realized that this was covid superspread country. I don’t think I’ll go out again for that reason alone. I did snap a few pictures.

At home we have yet another frog in a vase. Talking with Jose, who lives nearby and faces the same swampy stream, he mentioned that they have frogs “all over the house”. I poured a little more water into the vase but am not going to be trained by a frog to catch and feed him/her flies. I refuse, even though I am tempted. Such a cute frog!